


Thursday
Today I tried to settle in and find my feet. I found the supermarket and bakery. I had a little wander up to school in the afternoon, getting hideously lost on the way. I went upto school in the evening too in order to observe a lesson. The students who are about to finish their part-time course were teaching and it was useful to see what I would be expected to achieve by the end of the course. It was also a good opportunity to meet the adults whom I might be teaching. After class I went to dinner with the students and it was good to get to know them a little and talk about teaching and Greece.
Friday
Hurrah! The elusive plumber finally turned up to finish the job. I can now clean the bathroom properly as I know there will be no more mess.
This afternoon is our first class at school. There are just 5 of us. We have an extra student for one week and there is a girl who doesn't arrive til Monday. So we're all female and I'm guessing we're all in out late twenties/early thirties which is nice. Gemma is British but lives in Athens with her husband, Mary is Greek/Canadian, Sarah is British/French and Ana-Maria is Romanian. I'm the only visitor as all the others live around Athens. I'm also the only one who lives in the city centre. It's good for me as I don't have to travel far but I was hoping to see more of my fellow students. Oh well, we'll see how it pans out. We all went for a coffee after class which was great to get to know one another and to bond a little.
Saturday
Slept in late. I've been averaging around 5 hours sleep a night for the last week, so the extra snooze time was very much needed! After lunch I had a wander around the city centre and the shops. As I headed towards Omonia Square, the police were closing off roads and a helicopter was circling. There didn't really seem to be a sense of urgency though and pedestrians weren't hindered so I couldn't tell what had happened. As I walked near to the National Museum and University, I started to smell smoke and for one awful minute i thought the fire was in the metro station. It turned out to be rubbish bins that had been set alight. Two rival political groups had clashed earlier in the day and set up barricades and burned bims. Riot police had eventually quelled the disturbance with tear gas. By the sounds of it the perpetrators ran off and disappeared into the crowds, leaving the police to arrest around 30 people who just happened to be standing close by. Makes me think maybe the police aren't that intelligent - lets hope I'm wrong.
Found the meat market which is amazing. Unfortunately I missed the fruit and veg market but I intend to do my shopping there in future so will see if I can take photos. It's a covered market hall and 3 sides are meat stalls, surrounding the fish stalls in the cenre. There must be at least 100 stalls and the cacophany of noise is astonishing. It's an incredibly vibrant place and I loved it.
I had a wander down the main shopping streets which are a strange mix. On one hand there are some rather expensive designer stores but down the pedestrianised streets are lots of immigrant men selling fake designer bags. These are carefully arranged on large blankets so they can pick them up and do a runner at any moment! I'm tempted to get some fake Prada but my suitcase was full as it was. I called into the supermarket on the way back to the apartment. I wanted a bottle of wine but had no idea what to choose. I picked up one bottle which I thought was around €5 but turned out to be €6,50. The lovely assistant pointed out it was a buy-one-get-one-free offer so I carried home two bottles of wine. At this point I had severe doubts as to the quality of the wine. I opened it up and the smell just confirmed my doubts. however by the time it had warmed up, it tasted rather good so I shall be back later in the week to see if there is any left.
Sunday
I played tourist today. The weather was beautifully sunny so I put my purse and map in my pocket, picked up my camera and wandered wherever I fancied. First I went to Keramikos, the old cemetry.
Then I wandered around Psiri and Monastiraki until I reached Plaka. The shops around here must be teeming with tourists in the summer but for now they are just quietly bustling with locals and the occasional tourist. I had a late lunch in a restaurant in Monastiraki. As I walked in, everyone turned to look at me. I honestly thought I'd wandered into a private party but it was a Spanish school trip and they soon lost interest. I ordered kebab with grilled tomato and tzatziki, a glass of wine and water. The waiter also brought some bread, olive oil and a dish of Kalamata olives. They were a beautiful bruised brown colour, fat and juicy and almost ready to burst out of their skins. Such an improvement on the stale bullets you get served in UK resaurants.
After lunch I wandered up the hill towards the Akropolis. It was a bit of an effort after such a large meal but the views were more than worth it. It fascinates me how hte old rubs shoulders with the new here. The ancient buildings are sometimes so well-preserved that they look newer than more recent contructs. I loved wandering little narrow alleyways, negotiating the tables and chairs left on the broad steps for kafenion customers, listening to the Greeks chattering around me.
On the Akropolis I felt more like a tourist than ever but at least it felt natural. I stopped to chat to a red-haired English family at the top. It turns out they are missionaries on the way to Cyprus and wanted to show their children where St Paul preached on the Rock of Mars. The children seemed more interested in playing hide-and-seek and grubbing around in the gravel to be honest. The father kindly took some time to explain his dubious mathematical evidence that proved the Bible was inspired by God rather than man, and the mother quickly got down to business and made sure my soul belonged to God. I'm afraid I lied to her and assured her it had been for a number of years, then made good my escape.
As I walked past the temple of Dionysus, texting my friend and wishing I'd made use of the toilet at the restaurant, a Greek man in his fifties forced his acquaintance onto me. I flummoxed him slightly by telling him I was in Athens to study English and he claimed to be a jeweller. That's probably why he noticed my unobtrusive emerald jewllery straight away. He kindly offered to take a picture of me on my phone which I politely refused. Honestly, these people must think I was born yesterday but they must catch out enough tourists to make the risk worth while. Why on earth would I hand over an expensive bit of equipment to a stranger??